Dr. Loosen Riesling – Dr. L Estate – Mosel, Germany – $12.00
Admit it. Your mom probably drinks Riesling. If first impressions are valid barometers of taste, the Fetzer box wine Riesling my mom kept in dad’s beer fridge was so sticky-sweet, my teenage self had one sip on the sly and swore it off forever. Eventually, my adult self was led back to Riesling due to an off-chance mention to a friend that I was dreading having to head to Las Vegas for a convention. Without hesitation, he pounced: “Lotus of Siam, a Thai place. You gotta go. Totally sketchy neighborhood, not a tourist kinda spot. Take a cab, but don’t go after dark. Order the spiciest thing on the menu and ask for a flight of Riesling. Flights aren’t even on the menu, but it’s kind of like a secret handshake. Do it – it’s mind blowing”. Sketchy neighborhoods, Vegas and a wine adventure? Not quite The Hangover, but it would have to suffice.
So there it was, between a lingerie store and a few closed outlets with a façade that makes Al’s and Vic’s look downright modern by comparison. Sure enough, the place had North America’s largest selection of Riesling, because, as it turns out, sweet goes swimmingly with spicy dishes. I was skeptical, but that didn’t last long; what did last long was my stay at the restaurant as the owner was overjoyed I was there for the purpose of this unlikely pairing (Good thing I heeded the advice about the cab ride).
When I saw this 2012 Dr. Loosen on the rack at Grizzly Wine and Spirits, I instantly recalled it as one of my favorites from the series of wine flights I had at Lotus of Siam and was amazed at the price – $12. Seriously, $12 for a well-structured, much heralded Wine Spectator value-of-the-year wine? It’s rare to find a mildly sweet, peach-forward, low-alcohol, and lightly acidic imported wine that can hold up to jalapeños. This is a bargain; grab one the next time you’re planning on some takeout from SaWaDee or throwing some heat onto some dry-rubbed ribs and you won’t be disappointed.
Then again, if sweet wine isn’t your thing, ring one up and stash it for the next time your mom visits; you’ll be sibling-of-the-year. And you can always hit the Fetzer after dinner.
