2011 Semifonte, Podere Ciona, Gaiole in Chianti – Italy, $14.50
The Fiat Panda is to Italy as the Outback is to Missoula. If you ever have an opportunity to rally around Tuscany for a few days, chances are you’ll end up renting one of these ubiquitous go karts that pass as cars. And on your rally, when you stop in random hill towns for lunch or dinner, you’ll no doubt pass on the extensive wine lists, instead opting for vino rosso della casa, or house wine.
These house wines, like the venerable Fiat, turn out not to be Brunello or Chianti Classico, but hyper local blends known as IGT wines. IGT simply indicates a typical regional wine that contains less stringent guidelines on using non-native grapes, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, in concert with native grapes like Sangiovese. The reality is marquee wines, like Brunello, are just as expensive when you’re in Italy as they are when you’re stateside. More often than not, if you ask for a recommendation in a small town outside of the major tourist areas, the owner will recommend a less expensive IGT blend because that’s what he drinks.
This $14.50 Podere Ciona Semifonte is an excellent example of an IGT wine. For the most part, it’s merlot dominant in any given vintage. The interesting part is that the remaining parts of the blend vary from year-to-year depending on the harvest. So, in this 2011 edition, the Merlot is accompanied mostly by Sangiovese, resulting in a taste profile intense with wild berries on the uptake, but dry and cooperative with food.
Like the Fiat, this Semifonte is intended to be a utilitarian vehicle to accompany – but not overshadow or elevate – your next pizza night. It’s no Lamborghini, but it will get you to your destination all the same.
